Stone Country – Landscapes and Lifescapes

Sometimes you think it's all been done, there's nothing left to do. it takes dedicated eyes to spot new lines and problems, especially somewhere as worked as Dumby. Yet again, Dave MacLeod has pulled out another good problem, this time a clean, natural line, no eliminate. On the 'dirty' side of the BNI boulder, just right of the scrotum-shrinking 'Nadjilation', is the overhanging arete that is now the chalk-ticked technical excellence of 'Sugar Rush' Font 7b. Dave says: A technical wee number that kept us busy for an hour or so. The landing ain’t so bad with a couple of pads and spotter but it’s a good pure arête line – not many of them left at Dumby ...

The excellent cold and dry conditions in February and early march has allowed Dumby to see some hard repeats, Dave Redpath on Pongo Sit-start and Dave MacLeod on Supersize Me. The question remains, is there an 8c lurking at Dumby??? Here is Dave on his repeat: "It was put up by Malcolm Smith last June (I was getting close then too but he beat me to it!!). It takes a big diagonal line across a 40 degree face on the boulder, linking up several problems with no let up. Basically Font 7a traverse into Pongo SS. Up this (Font 8a) and reverse the traverse of In Bloom (Font 7c) into Slap Happy Font 7a to finish. About 30 moves in total." Dave has now done all three Font 8b's in Scotland, the other two being Pressure and The Perfect Crime, both at Dumbarton Rock.

STOP PRESS! Tim Rankin has climbed the hardest confirmed boulder problem in the North East, and Portlethen's gnarliest creation so far, at V11. Here's the news from Tim himself: '...heres the description and as for the grade I don't care but am tempted to give it a provocative 8a+ based on other things I've worked but it must be there abouts 8a/8a+. This problem takes the challenge of the widest part of the Pit roof from the back then climbs the faint hanging arete feature to finish up "The Pain" Start sitting at the back wall under the widest part of the roof on the right side of the Pit. Desperately pull on using an undercut and a small side-pull, grab the good hold on the lip and power up and left to gain the good undercut and an easier finish straight up.' February 2006 Tim Rankin has been busy with Chris Adams, best buddy Mark and new Devon boy 'cool-hand' Luke, who is eating up the local testpieces. This well-bicepped North East cre...

A number of new venues over the last few years has transformed the Trossachs from a traditional cragging backwater to a rediscovered gem of modern bouldering philosophy. The main areas are Loch Katrine, Stronachlachlar, Ben A'an and Ben Ledi. LOCK STOCK AND BARREL V9 - Dave Macleod's testpiece on the Sebastopol boulder. This gut-buster sit starts under the blunt arete and hooks and slaps up to a desperate slap for the sloper on the original V2 problem of Sebastopol. The true cave start remains a big number. BOOMER V1 - the excellent and remarkably easy dyno (if you commit!) on the Fence boulders at Stronachlachlar. From a handrail, wind up the spring and boom for the apex jug. Try not to let your feet helicopter you off, stamp your foot on the wall as soon as you can! TOURIST TRAP V5 - Loch Katrine - From a sit start on this arete, gain a two-finger sloper with a long reach, then figure out the best body position to grab the lip holds. Traverse left to escape this trap! WA...

PRESS RELEASE 11 January 2006 Films should be submitted for initial viewing and consideration on DVD or VHS format. Mini-DV is the preferred format for use at the festival. Film entries should be submitted to: Stevie Christie (EMFF) c/o Wilderness Scotland 3A St Vincent Street Edinburgh EH3 6SW For further information, visuals, or interviews contact Festival Director Stevie Christie Tel: 07919 818 901 Email: stevie@edinburghmountainff.com

This year has seen a continued exploration of Scotland's vast bouldering potential, with many new venues and ascents from a growing critical mass of boulderers. The sheer remoteness of some venues has meant repeats will be slow in coming, but these are some of the most impressive confirmed bouldering ascents of the year. February at Dumby and Dave MacLeod has been busy on the rocks, with the first major ascent of the year: 'Smokescreen' V12. He describes it thus: “The second big project to go in the Firestarter cave. Start just left of the flat lip jug with both hands in a good slot. Levitate up and slightly left on atrocious glassy slopers until it is possible to make a technical slap right to a tiny ripple on a smooth ramp. Go again for the High Flyer jug and finish up this. devious and technical with a backbreaking landing. Hardest bloc at Dumby in Feb 2005.� Dave MacLeod on The Perfect Crime V13 March 2005, Dumbarton. An invigorated Dave Macleod climbs the link-up...

Thanks to Stuart Stronach for pics of an exciting new venue: Muchalls Shore, south of Portlethen. Stuart reports: Thankyou Mister Limpet V1 "It’s a few miles south of Portlethen – a broad pebbly beach with assorted boulders, craglets and pinnacles that now offers nearly 100 problems, mostly very easy but with a few up to V5. As such, it will hopefully attract those who find the Portlethen circuit a little too intense, and/or those new to bouldering. The mostly friendly landings also make a pleasant change from the boulders and rocks on other coastal spots. That said, there are a few problems which require a ‘shallow water soloing’ mentality, including Chris Fryer’s Smile Around the Face. Smile Around the Face V2 Downsides? Well, it’s more tidal than Portlethen, so barnacles can be a problem when the tide is out, and the problems are spread out over a larger area. Potential for more problems? The area immediately north of the current developm...