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The Whangie

A fine outlook is only spoiled by shattered rock but there is a little bouldering here if you work hard at thinking on movement rather than aesthetics. The curious camouflaged nature of the lichened basalt means climbing requires not only a patient approach but care with broken rock and an expectation that the rock may suddenly explode, so in many ways it suits bouldering more than trad, or, perish the thought, soloing. With bouldering you get to look at the view more often between attempts and the view, especially on a clear winter day, is by far the highlight. It is hard to bring the Whangie into the modern age of climbing...perhaps a deep freeze will bring out the dry toolers. Or perhaps we should have just brought a stove and sandwiches.
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