Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Spring 2012

Dumby... as the days lengthen and improve, so the litter grows! The place may be a mess and a hopeless example of citizenship, but hell, the bouldering is good and folk are getting out on their projects! Good to see Johnny Bean back climbing after his illness, plus some new fresh faces getting the psyche for the place, that's encouraging...

The rock has dried, the chalk grows like a white fungus and still there are new problems to be found. I took advantage of some cool spring weather to work my nemesis of Pongo Sit and did a few new problems. One in particular is a cracker and a 'project' I had stared at for years but never actually tried - the wee groove left of Kev's problem went via a bizarre but pleasing dyno to jugs. It feels utterly impossible until you throw for the lip, the wild swing from the jugs just feels magic when you latch it.








At Craigmore, the recent dry spell brought out the boulderers, but it appears someone is a little too eager with their cleaning and has gone a bit ape-shit with their saws - some trees were chopped and this is utterly unacceptable. Careful cleaning of holds is fine, but wholesale Napalming is not, nor is there any need to chop or even prune trees...they just don't get in the way of the problems, certainly not the worthwhile problems. And no problem, especially the shitty problems, are worth sacrificing 20 years or more worth of growing...

Anyway, rant over, here are the three versions of the Terror Problem explained in a vid. The project of the main face via the left hand on the crimp is still to be done...

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