Sunday, April 11, 2010

Lendalfoot Bouldering




Revisited this neglected wee coastal venue on a fine hot day with a cool sea breeze to dry the tidal boulders. Reclimbed a few old problems and have described the best here, named in absentia of any actual history - they have been done before. Paul Savage visited here years ago and I suspect his '8a' project was the black wall - a leaning tidal highball roof and wall.

Lendalfoot Boulders NX 134 906

Lenndalfoot is a summer shingle beach venue with a terrific view out to Ailsa Craig. The boulders along the beach provide limited bouldering with a few choice problems and some hard projects on the central black wall boulder. It is immediately accessible from laybys on the beach at Lendalfoot, a few miles south of Girvan on the A77. There are three sectors: the northern being the best with the Orange Walls and northern leaning ‘pinnacle face’, the central black wall boulder (tidal) and the village boulders and walls to the south. Summer is best when a drying breeze dries out the weepy shale.

 1. Toffee Nosed Bastard Font 6c
Northern sector. Orange Walls northern ‘pinnacle face’. SS and climb the steep tapering toffee bulge via a long reach off an undercut to a diagonal crack, use holds in this to slap up to the left arĂȘte to gain reluctant jugs over the top left.

Pinnacle Face of the Orange Walls (Toffee Nose)

 2. Toffee Nosed Traverse Font 6b
SS on the far right of the pinnacle face of the Orange Walls and traverse hard left to gain the left arĂȘte and rock round this. Excellent technical lock offs and presses, the footholds are poor if the sand is high!

Project:

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